Café culture and the urban crisis of Yerevan in its shadows
The Armenian word for ”friend” [ընկեր/ynker] literally means ”a person with whom you share food,” reflecting the cultural significance of communal spaces. In the capital city of Yerevan, cafés are more than just places to enjoy a coffee – they are integral to the city's social fabric and daily life. For many Yerevan residents, cafés are where they meet friends after work, find a spot to get some work done, or simply escape the hustle and bustle of daily life. But does this café culture mask a deeper urban issue?
David, a freelance photographer and a dedicated patron of various Yerevan cafés, appreciates the café culture but sees it as a symptom of a broader urban issue. He argues that the prevalence of cafés reflects a lack of diverse activities in Yerevan; ”We find ourselves at cafés every day, not because it's our top choice, but because the city doesn't offer much else.” While Yerevan is increasingly offering new amenities such as tennis courts, pilates centres, and contemporary art venues, they haven't yet become central to local life.
The increasing number of cafés raises concerns about their impact on urban and green spaces. A case in point is the Circular Park, a public park in downtown Yerevan. This park, meant to provide recreational space and cultural enrichment, is now overshadowed by more than ten cafés. In some cases, it seems like coffee shops and restaurants are being constructed at the expense of green and free space in Yerevan, transforming the downtown into a cluster of instagrammable spots.
Lidia, a Yerevan enthusiast, similarly acknowledges the appeal of these spots but also sees a downside. ”Cafés are my favourite escape after work – a place to relax, socialise, and take a break from the routine of home and office. However, their popularity contributes to the overcrowding of downtown.” She finds it troubling that her favourite cafés are contributing to a trend where public areas are slowly being overtaken for business purposes.
The social scene in Yerevan seems somewhat restricted compared to the wide array of options available in many cities across Europe. In many European capitals, there's a diverse range of social spaces, including urban parks, libraries and community hubs, and the culture of energetic house parties, offering numerous ways to socialise and unwind.
In addition to their impact on the environment, in recent years, café prices in Yerevan have skyrocketed due to rising living costs, housing expenses, tax reforms, and correspondingly, higher salaries. Some people view the central cafés as places primarily frequented by the ”bourgeoisie.”
Although cafés are important for Yerevan's social life, their popularity points to a bigger issue: the need for a wider range of public spaces, especially considering that there's a strong demand for it.